Introducing the


*The IA2 Engine Block*

505 lower end crate engine $6190.00 - in stock

IAII block, Eagle stroker crank, Eagle H beam rods, Ross pistons, CM rings, Fed Mog bearings, balanced, decked, assembled.

Call for upgrades and complete engines - from pump gas to all out race.

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505/IA2 break in video

-Retooled and recasted blocks (all issues of first run blocks are addressed-All Water jacket modifications are made).
- Siamesed cylinder bores (Allow up to 4.400" bores with .230 wall thickness excellent cylinder integrity).
- All steel main caps (With splayed four bolt on the three center mains add rigidity).
- Main webs (Thickened to the maximum space available for added strength).
- Cam tunnels (With enough meat to be taken out to big block Ford size for radical roller profiles).
- Wider pan rails (For better oil pan gasket sealing and gasket retention).
- Thicker deck surfaces (Provide added strength and aid in cylinder head sealing.
- Solid lifter galley (With drilled oil returns prevent lifter bore breakage and add strength).
- Improved oiling (Adds longevity and helps prevent front main bearing "starvation".
- Redesigned cooling (Helps you keep your cool).
- Bottom of the block (Is solid to the bend above the pan rail for added strength).
- "Flats" (At the back of the block provide a pick up point for special cooling situations).
- Dual bell housing bolt patterns (For both Pontiac and "corporate" housings).
- Lifter bores (Are deeper to allow use of "corporate" lifters).
- Bottoms of cylinders (Are notched to clear strokes up to 4.75". A 5.0" stroke is possible with some grinding).
- Head bolt bosses (Are tied to cylinder walls and exterior block walls for added strength).
- Oil filter passages (Are threaded for easy remote filter mounting).
- Oil pump passages (Have corner plugs at 90 degree turns to reduce flow restriction).
- Threaded front (External oil passage for lubricating superchargers or turbos).
- Block (Uses standard Pontiac 5 bolt motor mount pattern).
- Standard deck height (Block is available with 3" mains).
- Tall deck (Block has 11.0" deck height and cam raised .386 for added stroke clearance and is available with 3" mains only).

Prototype block #1 pictured. First step was to fit crank, check all tapped holes, deburr, dry fit etc. I smoothed out and enlarged all oil returns. When spraying wd40, certain areas of the block will retain oil, and of course getting the oil back to the sump is important.
All work is prior to machine shop. Decks were not cut yet. Pictured here is dip stick hole I tapped with 1/4 npt to plug. Using Canton pan with external dip stick provision.
Pictured next is the large bore head gasket in place. This particular block had the coolant holes repaired, not an issue with the production run. Block was sonic tested and bores have plenty of meat with 4.350 bore. There was core shift, though and Allpontiac is addressing that issue as well. Keep in mind this block is a prototype and all minor issues are being addressed. Of the 3 blocks being tested, all info is being compaired and addressed - pretty impressive - gotta love what these guys are doing to get a quality product out there.
Great news! The IA2 block is machined and ready for assembly. Everything checked out. Pressure test was good. No porosity. The arrow points to the clutch ball threads I tapped to plug. It's a reminder to reinstall plug. The machining went through to the coolant. Not a problem for the production run. The oil pan rail has the torque specs for use with moly. A nice time saver on freshen-ups.
Next is a photo of the hone of the bore with proper cross hatch for moly rings (being used). As I recall, like just about every new aftermarket block out there, (for the brand X's) you will need to deck, bore, hone (with plate- I hope everyone does), and the saddles may need to be line honed depending on builders choice/clearance desired. To make sure this block checked out ok, many operations were done. Sonic checked, pressure tested, cleaned, preassembled, clearancing, etc. Everything checked out good (some improvements are being implemented) so the machining cost was higher than what a production block would run.
Eagle crank 3" journal 4.250 stroke. Weight added during balance, checked for cracks and straightness, polished journals to achieve clearance (was too tight from Eagle), semi-polished thrust area, polished seal area.

Modified the thrust bearing.
Installed Stainless steel restrictors .080.
Of course the BOP seal is used. Sharp eyes will notice the oil feed hole for the main bearing.
Another view.
Crank has been mic'd - dial bore guage set to mic and after main is torqued (115 lbs w/moly) the bearing clearanced is checked note about thrust bearing cap - for the sharp eye, the thrust cap is thicker then it should be and is not being used as is. I ran a straight edge from the thrust surface to the cap and it was only .007 clearance - this of course is being adjusted for the production run.

Lower bearings installed with assembly lube.Crank ready to drop in.
Nice fit.
Caps torqued.
End play.
Setting up the dial bore gauge for the rod clearances.

Checking rod bearing clearance. 6.800 long Crower rods were selected because the owners of of this block (Allpontiac) are men of quality . The wrap on my arm is from years of porting heads (carpal tunnel - OUCH!).

Ross Pistons.
Installing spiral locks.
Of course, before installing pistons, bores were cleaned and oiled. I use wd40 to first clean, then sae 30 non detergent. Seems to work like a magnet for fine machine dust.
About to install cap w/ assembly lube.
Half way there.
Checking rod side clearance.

Checking piston to deck - critical for determining compression ratio.
After the lower end was complete - I had to modify my crankshaft oil scraper.
Here it is after the trimming.
Before installing the modified scraper I blueprinted the oil pump.

After the pump was complete and the Canton pick up installed, the scraper was glued to block, bolted down and left to dry.
The dip stick hole area of the scraper was weakened, so I mig welded one of the tabs. I cut off to keep the scraper from bending or moving.
Before I installed the scraper I traced it (I am making a new piece for this block and for other blocks with aftermarker 4 bolt caps). The part will have extra material with elongated holes - so people won't have to do all the mods.

Next step is the cam. Comp Cams solid roller around 640 lift and around 250 duration.
Here is a little trick I do to the cam key. Make it pointed or "boat tail" on one end so it finds the cam gear easily.
Cam, timing chain, thrust plate, fuel pump eccentric elimation washer - all installed. Setting up to degree cam.
Another view.
Hint: I also dry fit the gears on the crank and cam before installing. Many times (like this cam) the key sticks up too high and I have to modify it.

87 cc E head temporarily installed with light springs.
Checking piston to valve.
Head back off. Timing cover and balancer installed.
Modified oil filter housing gasket.
I used the Felpro 70077 and matched the larger holes so no gasket was hanging out in the path of the oil.

90 degree housing installed. The motor will be dynoed with this housing and replaced for Frank's 71 Firebird.

Another new item that I am developing for the 505 crate motor is a bolt on windage tray. The canton tray would not fit with the splayed caps. I ran out of time to make the jig - so I will finish it later and test on one of my crate motors.

I had Frank send me a stock windage tray and I modified it to eliminate the breakage problem.
Made aluminum flat spacers to raise the windage tray away from the crank/rods.
Mounted and everything clears. I run this set up on my dragster. The dip stick for this motor will come right off the Canton pan.
Other side view. Also note the timing cover heater hose end is plugged.

Canton oil pan (#op451) I am trying the SCE gasket and rubber seal to see how it works compared to the Felpro and rear cork. The rubber has a tendency to move, but I glued it with right stuff - I like this gasket as it is flatter and will not move like the Felpro cork.

Here is a shot of the trap doors. Since Frank is putting this engine in a 71 Firebird, I could have used the lower profile road race pan, but if he wants to use this engine in another car, the pan will allow it.

Pan installed and motor flipped back over. Head gaskets installed. Note cool oil primer made by Mike Wilson from a points distributor.

E heads installed.
Lifters, pushrods, rockers, installed. Lash set and motor being primed.
Valley pan installed.
Starting to port Victor intake, crossover separated.

Fully ported intake testing for fit. Best one I've installed. Its nice with a stock deck height. Note marks on head and intake to line up center line of port.
Shot of #3 intake port - they all lined up this nice. Alot of porting, though.
Ready to bolt on.

After the intake was ported and fitted, Frank sent me his crossover and I made up the braided lines for the even cooling of the rear cylinders. Bob welded the bungs to the crossover (very nice welding). Note the new valve covers - these are going on my dragster and did not fit with Franks Lunati roller rockers. Frank is getting my fabricated valve covers.

Back view with intake installed
Intake bolted down, Meziere water pump installed. All hardware is stainless steel.
Test fitting RH header.
And why it is a good idea to test fit. Pet cock drain hit - easy fix, just needed to trim. But the dip stick provision is right smack in the way of one of the tubes. The things that make ya nuts and just take forever to resolve.

At least the other side was good.
Motor going on my test stand before the dyno to break in.
Almost ready to fire up. Of course, headers did not fit test stand, but I have a set of round port headers just for this stand.

ITS ALIVE!!! Got it fired up today. I just fired it for a minute and will break in tomorrow - ran out of time today. One of my distractions was getting into Jim Hands new book - found it hard to put down. Engine sounds great and had excellent oil pressure.

Motor broken in - no leaks, no problems. Ran engine for 30 minutes. Pic is the engine actually running. Hard to see but oil pressure is at 60 lbs, temp 190 and rpm is 1800. Cooling system is a hose going to lower hose and regulated to achieve temp. Water exits where upper hose would connect and exits right to ground. This also helps clean out machine dust, etc before engine connects to car's radiator.

Front shot of engine running.
This concludes the build up. I have to retorque the heads, install my valve covers, check lash, drill headers for egt and install evac. Then engine goes to the dyno on July 27th. We will be updating this page often. Note: This build up will be in HPP as well with more details, etc.
505/IA2 break in video ------Dyno video coming soon

Finally! the IA2 is dynoed (took 2 days!) and it is gone!!!!!!! everything worked out great!

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